Tag: RV Life

  • Your 7-day free trial to Alaska has expired

    Your 7-day free trial to Alaska has expired

    Truer words were never muttered by Lee, the campground’s maintenance man. This was in the aftermath of the brutally cold ice storm that swept over Texas, back in January. When the main lines burst in our section of the campground, we were left with no running water for days.

    At one point Chris stepped out of the trailer during a quick break from work to inspect the situation. He found Lee in the middle of hooking up our rig to a neighboring campsite’s water hydrant while we waited for the main line to be fixed.

    “How deep are the water pipes buried underground here?” Chris curiously asked.

    Lee paused, looked up, and replied matter-of-factly,
    “We’re Texans… we don’t feel the need to bury our pipes.”

    Ah, okay then.

    We knew the cold front was coming, but we may have not taken it as seriously as the locals. I mean… we’re used to winter. How bad can a cold front in the South really be?

    Before the storm hit, we had scrambled to find anywhere that could refill our propane tanks in the middle of a shortage. Most Texans had been quicker than us to react, already preparing for what felt like an apocalyptic weather forecast. We rushed to the hardware store and stocked up on heat tape for the water pipes, hoping this would be enough to insulate our water lines.

    And then, we felt the temperatures drop. We woke up to a layer of ice covering every surface in sight. As I tried going down the stairs to further inspect this southern winter wonderland, my foot slipped on the icy steps and I tumbled down right to the ground that crunched softly under me. Just elegantly gliding through life… clearly.

    Those of you who were expecting tips from Alaska have by now realized that we’re actually in Texas.  But you’re more than welcome to stick around. This is where the chapter really begins. 

    If you’ve been following along for a while, you already know there’s always some level of chaos woven into these adventures.

    When we’d started planning our departure from Louisiana, we’d learned that the RV park where we were staying owned several properties across the country. Conveniently, one of them sat right along a motorcycle route we’d been wanting to ride: the Texas Hill Country Backcountry Discovery Route loop.

    Then I saw the town name: Bandera, the Cowboy Capital of the World. How cool is that?

    The location seemed promising so I called to make a reservation. On the other end of the line was the kindest woman, who patiently walked me through availability. Sadly though, they were fully booked for one of our chosen weekends, which meant a full month wasn’t possible.

    She explained that the town gets especially busy during Cowboy Mardi Gras.

    “Mardi Gras?” I asked, suddenly unsure I had dialed the right place.

    “Yes,” she replied warmly. “Cowboy Mardi Gras.”

    I hesitated.
    “Just to make sure… this is Texas, right? Not Louisiana?”

    “Yes ma’am,” she said, still as patient as ever. “This is Antler Oaks RV Park in Texas. Mardi Gras isn’t just celebrated in Louisiana, it’s quite popular here too.”

    That’s one of the tradeoff we tend to run into when planning our next stop: the monthly rate is worth it, but finding a place that has availability and meets our needs can get complicated.

    I asked to be put on the waitlist in case anything opened up. I was definitely disappointed, but still hopeful.

    And then the universe did what it does best. Someone canceled that very same afternoon. 

    I didn’t hesitate. I happily booked it.

    When we’d wrapped up our short stint in Minnesota in January, we’d pointed ourselves South toward Louisiana, trading the cold northern air for the long stretch of highway ahead. 

    It felt a bit like retracing our steps before starting something new again. Once Bus and truck were together again, we’d be heading west toward Texas and its warmer days. Or so we thought.

    It’s impressive how one knows they’ve arrived in Texas.

    The landscape shifts almost immediately. The soft, forgiving greenery we’d grown used to in Lafayette gives way to something a little more rugged and intense. The earth itself feels drier, dustier, tinged in pale limestone and sunbaked tones.

    Then there are the trees. They don’t just grow here, they defend themselves.

    Scrubby Ashe junipers dot the hills in thick clusters, their dense, tangled branches giving the land a wild, almost unkempt feel. Mesquite trees twist low to the ground, armed with long, unforgiving thorns that look like they mean business. Even the live oaks, with their sprawling, ancient limbs, seem to reach outward in every direction like they’ve been shaped by years of wind, drought, and stubborn resilience.

    Prickly pear cactus line the roadsides, flat green paddles covered in spines that you only notice after you’ve brushed up against them (Ask me how I know.). Agave and yucca plants spike up from the ground like nature’s version of a warning sign: look, don’t touch. It’s a landscape that feels… armed. Like everything here has adapted to hold its ground.

    As we turn into the campground, it’s surrounded by wide pastures. We are in cattle country, after all. So it feels only fitting that, as we pull up by the main office building, we’re greeted by four large black Angus cows and bulls lazily working through piles of hay.

    Inside the office, we’re welcomed by two lovely women. One of them is Silvia, the patient voice I had spoken to just a few weeks earlier. She walks us through the layout of the campground, points out the amenities, and casually mentions that the cows are very friendly and love to greet visitors.

    The other woman, who happens to be the park manager, disappears into the back room and returns with a large plastic bag full of treats for us to give the cows.

    I am thrilled.

    Chris is slightly baffled at how something so simple can spark that level of excitement from me. But growing up on a hobby farm, I suppose he got this out of his system early. My inner child, however, was raised mostly in a big city, where interactions with wildlife were limited… unless you were willing to play a risky game of rabies roulette with a raccoon digging through the trash.

    So yes, this felt magical.

    Naturally, our evening walks around the campground quickly turned into cow-spotting missions. I never left without a few snacks tucked into my hoodie pocket, just in case.

    At first, the herd kept their distance, watching us cautiously from afar. Fair enough. I wouldn’t trust random strangers either without knowing their intentions.

    But eventually, curiosity (and snacks) won.

    One day, I caught them close enough to the fence and pulled out a treat. That was all it took.

    From then on, they began approaching us during our walks, growing more comfortable with each encounter accepting our petting them and enthusiastically nibbling their treats.

    One evening we called out to them from a neighboring pasture, not expecting much. But suddenly, the youngest bull came cantering toward us, throwing in little excited bucks along the way, clearly determined to get his share of cookies.

    I didn’t think cows could get more endearing. Boy, was I was wrong.

    On Today’s Episode Of Chris And His Knockers… And Other Animal Encounters

    We are staying at a campground absolutely overrun with deer, to Chris’ absolute delight.

    Not the tall, sturdy, majestic deer we’re used to seeing in Minnesota. These seem like their smaller, slightly more delicate cousins. Hill Country deer (mostly white-tailed) are leaner, lighter on their feet, with narrower frames and this constant, alert energy about them. 

    They graze casually through campsites, wander between rigs like they pay rent, and regularly stop just close enough before deciding whether you’re worth worrying about. It’s just enough interaction to completely derail Chris.

    Because once one deer shows up, that’s it! He’s at the window.

    Watching with binoculars in hand. Waiting. Narrating.

    Hence: Chris and his knockers.

    But the deer aren’t the only regulars. We also have armadillos—what we’ve humorously started calling the tactical possums of Texas after reading that on a t-shirt.

    If you’ve never seen one up close, imagine a small, round-bodied creature wearing medieval armor. Their bodies are covered in these segmented, bony plates that move as they shuffle along, noses pressed to the ground, constantly sniffing for insects. It’s like nature couldn’t decide between “tank” and “rodent” and just… went with both.

    They’re not fast.
    They’re not graceful.
    And most importantly, they don’t see very well.

    Which, unfortunately (or fortunately), has turned them into Chris’s favorite form of entertainment while on our daily walks around the property.

    He has developed what can only be described as a stealth approach technique, where he slowly tries to sneak up on them while they’re busy minding their own business. And for just a brief moment it almost works.

    The second the armadillo senses something’s off, however, it bolts in the most chaotic, zigzagging escape pattern imaginable, leaving Chris standing there trying not to laugh at how completely ludicrous this whole interaction is.

    To be clear—he never actually tries to grab one. They are wild animals, after all. This is strictly a “look but don’t touch (and maybe lightly stalk for fun)” situation.

    And then there’s the surprising absence of something we were fully expecting. Snakes. Before arriving in Texas, it felt like everyone had a story, a warning, or a dramatic retelling involving rattle snakes. We braced ourselves for constant vigilance. Watching every step, scanning every trail. And yet… not a single sighting. 

    I guess this is the animal equivalent of the hill people: the fear of the unknown often proves more grandiose than the reality.

    Took a Day Trip To San Antonio

    Because our first few weeks in Texas have greeted us with inclement weather, our motorcycles are on a forced break for the time being. 

    On this particular weekend, we’ve traded in our adventure gear for walking shoes as we take a drive to San Antonio and explore the city and some important American history that goes along with it.

    There’s a quiet gravity to The Alamo that you don’t quite grasp until you’re standing inside its walls. The limestone façade—smaller than you might expect—feels less like a grand monument and more like a preserved memory, held carefully in place amid the growing city around it.

    We opted for a guided tour, which shifted the experience from simply seeing to understanding. Walking through the grounds, the guide unraveled layers of history that stretched beyond the iconic 1836 battle—back to its origins as an 18th-century Spanish mission. The low stone buildings, weathered wooden doors, and open courtyards framed stories of resilience and conflict in a way that felt tangible. 

    From there, we dropped down into the winding pathways of the San Antonio River Walk, where the city shifts again—this time into something more intimate. The River Walk sits below street level, creating a kind of hidden corridor lined with stone bridges, cypress trees, and restaurants that hug the water’s edge. It makes me think of the waterways of Venice, Italy, especially when you see public transportation in the form of boats.

    The cold had thinned the crowds, which made the experience feel almost private. Without the usual hum of packed patios and passing tour boats, you notice the smaller details—the way the water moves slowly under the bridges and the contrast between the quiet river and the busy streets just above.

    We passed by the original Coyote Ugly Saloon, doors open just after noon, already humming with the promise of a much louder night ahead. Inside, it carried that unmistakable energy of dim lighting, worn wood, a bar built for standing on as much as leaning against.

    A bartender, fully in character, welcomed us in with an immediate suggestion of shooters. It was tempting in a “this is the story we’ll tell later” kind of way—but the clock (and the rest of the day’s plans) nudged us toward restraint. We took a quick look, soaked in the atmosphere, and stepped back out into the daylight before things escalated past curiosity.

    We stopped for an unapologetically Texan lunch at The County Line BBQ: a pulled pork sandwich piled high and ribs that were done right. The sauce leaned rich, slightly sweet, with a tang that cut through the heaviness. And because this is still Texas, margaritas promptly made their way to the table.

    Cowboy Mardi Gras And The Town of Bandera

    Known as the “Cowboy Capital of the World,” this small Hill Country town of roughly 900 residents swells to nearly 10,000 over the Cowboy Mardi Gras weekend.

    We watched it unfold in real time at the campground at first. A group of colorful RVs rolled in for the weekend like a traveling burst of energy, unloading decorations, beads, and just enough sparkle to transform campsites into mini Mardi Gras outposts. 

    The “Lady of the Fly” group is a traveling community of women who gather around a shared love of the road and camping. What stands out most is how quickly they transform a space. They’ve brought a kind of festive momentum with them that sets the tone for what is about to unfold in town.

    When the parade rolled through, it didn’t just pass by. Float after float made its way down Main Street, each one a mix of western grit and Mardi Gras flair. Horses walked alongside decorated trailers, boots and hats paired with purple, green, and gold.

    We stood shoulder to shoulder with strangers who didn’t feel like strangers for long, waving, laughing, and reaching out as beads arced through the air. Some were caught cleanly, others bounced off hands and hit the pavement, immediately scooped up with the kind of competitive joy that only something as simple as a plastic necklace can inspire.

    Somewhere between the floats and the shops, we found ourselves pulled towards a group of reenactors fully committed to another era. Dressed as cowboys, sheriffs, and outlaws, they carried themselves like they’d stepped straight out of the 1800s, complete with exaggerated swagger and perfectly timed one-liners.

    The gunfight reenactment was equal parts theatrical and hilarious. Every movement was deliberate, every draw just dramatic enough, every fall to the ground a little more exaggerated than the last. They stayed in character the entire time, playing off the crowd, stretching the moment in a way that made you forget what time period we’re in.

    Before the beads and parade floats, Bandera earned its identity the hard way. In the late 1800s, it was a major staging ground for cattle drives—longhorns gathered here before being pushed north along routes like the Western Trail. Cowboys, many of them Mexican vaqueros whose techniques shaped what we now recognize as “cowboy culture,” drove herds across vast stretches of land toward railheads in Kansas.

    That legacy isn’t tucked away in a museum, it’s woven directly into the town. Along Main Street, storefronts embrace the aesthetic: leather goods, western wear, old saloons, and family-run shops that feel more like a lived-in extensions of the people behind the counter than retail spaces.

    My Very American Bucket List

    Somewhere along this full-time RV journey, I unknowingly started what I now call “my very American bucket list.” As a Canadian living in the U.S., it became less about sightseeing and more about immersion—leaning into the things that feel distinctly American. Truthfully, the list is a moving target. Every time someone asks what’s on it, I seem to reinvent it on the spot. But two things have remained consistent. First: noodling—yes, the act of catching fish with your bare hands. That one is still… under review, pending both feasibility and a serious conversation about my personal safety. Second: an authentic cowboy hat from Texas.

    Which is how we found ourselves inside The Cowboy Store, me trying on what felt like every hat in the building. Felt, straw, black, tan—each one slightly different, each one requiring a full head tilt and mirror check. And of course, the one I loved and fit nicely on my apparently large head was not the most budget-friendly option. In my defense, there are way more expensive choices. So my preferred option was the middle ground. Oh yeah!, I got it. When I called my sister to tell her about my new accessory, she immediately labeled the purchase as ridiculous, which only made me dig my heels in further. I wore it proudly during Cowboy Mardi Gras, fully committing to the look. Financially, the cost-per-wear hasn’t exactly balanced out yet but I remain stubbornly optimistic that it will.

    Southern Hospitality: An Homage To The People We Met

    Just as the landscape seems harsh, the opposite is true of Texans in everyday life. Conversations start easily here even in the most ordinary places, like the grocery store aisle. It’s a polite nod, a simple “ma’am,” a small exchange that somehow carries a quiet respect. It’s effortless and I love it!

    During our stay at the campground, the people we met seemed to embody that spirit in their own distinct ways.

    Keith and Linda were the kind of couple that make you believe opposites really do attract and thrive. Keith, full of humor and calm, carried himself with an easy kindness. Linda, on the other hand, was sharp, witty, and unapologetically direct. Together, they balanced each other perfectly. It reminded me of that “black cat and golden retriever” pairing. Different energies, yet fitting seamlessly.

    Then there was Cindy. Opinionated, full of sass, and always accompanied by her dog, Robin—a round, determined pitbull who seemed to have appointed herself as the one in charge of their walks. More often than not, Robin walked Cindy. She didn’t seem to mind.

    Jason, the campground’s new maintenance guy, brought a different kind of charm. He had stories collected from campgrounds all over the country and a way of turning small mishaps into something worth laughing about. A broken water line spraying wildly from an empty site wasn’t a problem to him. “Perfect bird fountain,” he said. And if you dug it out a little more? Maybe a koi pond. His ability to find humor in the everyday feels contagious.

    And then there was a specific moment that truly caught us off guard.

    One evening, while getting ready for dinner, Chris was outside making homemade hotdog buns. Space inside the bus is limited, so he had taken over what little room he could find outside, fully focused on kneading the dough. What he didn’t realize was that he had an audience.

    A woman staying a few spots down had apparently been watching him.

    Later that night, as we sat down for one last dinner at the campground with Jason, she suddenly pulled up beside us. Without hesitation, she leaned out and told Chris how amazing it was to watch a young man knead dough so thoroughly.

    We were stunned.

    We had been there for a month and had never exchanged a single word with her. And now, out of nowhere, she was going out of her way to compliment him, practically swooning.

    Chris didn’t quite know how to respond. None of us did.

    She drove off just as quickly as she had appeared, leaving us sitting there, completely dumbfounded… and then absolutely cracking up. It was one of those moments you couldn’t have planned if you tried.

    The infamous homemade hotdog buns that caused quite the reaction from our neighbor.
  • Welcome To Bayou Country

    Welcome To Bayou Country

    Before starting this newest chapter of our travels, we first have to rewind to one of our previous destinations. 

    The story of how we ended up in Louisiana actually begins much farther north, in Nova Scotia.

    While we were there, I had a few memorable conversations with a man named Doug.

    Doug was one of those people who seems to have lived several different lives, each one more interesting than the other. At one point he had been a bush pilot in Alaska. He had made his way there from California and, if I remember correctly, hitchhiked much of the journey. The kind of story that makes you pause and realize there are far more ways to live our lives. After more than a decade in Lafayette, Louisiana, Doug had plenty of stories to share. His descriptions of his life there and the places his wife and he cherished inspired us to look more closely at the destination and, eventually, make the journey south.

    Doug said something during one of our conversations that has stayed with me: “The difference between adversity and adventure is your attitude.”

    Such a simple sentence. Yet, it completely shifted how I saw this newly embarked travel lifestyle. Instead of viewing uncertainty as something to control, I began to see it as an invitation to something potentially meaningful. A reminder that what defines a person isn’t just what they do in life, but how they choose to live their lives. Sometimes, it’s the experiences, the risks, and the stories gathered along the way that shape us the most.

    Traveling from Nova Scotia to Louisiana felt fitting, since their history is so intertwined. 

    Nova Scotia was the homeland of the Acadians. In the 1700s, many of them were deported during the Great Expulsion and eventually made their way to Louisiana.

    Over time, the word Acadian evolved into Cajun, partly because the English struggled to pronounce the original French name.

    And with that bit of history in mind, Lafayette suddenly felt like the perfect place to explore.

    Not long after leaving Arkansas, the landscape began to change. The forests gave way to small palm trees, the air felt heavy with humidity and the roads slowly dropped into the flat, watery lowlands of southern Louisiana. We had officially entered bayou country.

    Our arrival, however, did not quite match the romantic image I’d conveniently made up in my mind.

    During the first week, it rained. And rained. And rained.

    What started as a few wet days quickly turned into a relentless stretch of gray skies and steady downpours. The campground flooded and pools of water surrounded the trailers. Exploring was limited, and for a little while it felt like the weather had burst the bubble of adventure we had imagined. Instead of wandering through Cajun towns and bayous, we spent a lot of time inside the trailer, watching the rain fall and advancing our cribbage playing streak.

    Once the weather cleared, we started discovering just how rich this corner of Louisiana really is.

    One morning we crossed Avery Island to tour the Tabasco factory. The smell of peppers in the air was impressive as we learned how the famous sauce is fermented and aged for 3 years before being bottled and shipped around the world. After the tour, we wandered through the Jungle Gardens, where quiet roads wind beneath massive oak trees and past ponds dotted with birds and the occasional small gator. Chris had been on a mission to spot one ever since we arrived in Louisiana, so I couldn’t help but laugh at how quickly he whipped out his binoculars, scanning the swamp like a seasoned wildlife tracker. I didn’t even know he’d packed them. It was the beginning of what would become our running joke: “Chris and his knockers.”

    Another memorable day was spent at Vermilionville Historic Village, a living history village preserving Cajun and Creole heritage. Walking through the restored homes along the bayou felt like stepping into another slow, quiet century that was deeply rooted in tradition. And yet, just across the water, someone was fishing with loud rap music blasting, the bass thumping through the air. The contrast was impossible to ignore. Imagine standing inside an old forge with no modern amenities, while the beat of today’s music quite literally vibrated through the walls.

    We stopped for lunch at La Cuisine de Maman (Mom’s Kitchen), where Chris swears he had the absolute best bread pudding of his entire existence. Afterwards we wandered into the dancehall where a zydeco band had started playing. Before long the dance floor filled with locals, many of them older couples who moved with effortless rhythm. Watching them spin and laugh across the floor felt like a window into everyday Cajun culture.

    Our main reason for visiting Vermilionville was that I’d signed us up for a Cajun cooking class. We experienced heritage cooking at its finest, with a Hands-On Beignet Making Demo. Our food historian and beignet-maker supreme, Jay, guided us as he explained the origins of the famous beignets as we created delicious little dessert treats. By the end of the class, the room smelled like warm, fried dough and powdered sugar. 

    Louisiana: Where The Food Doesn’t Disappoint

    Food, of course, quickly became the main gateway into Cajun country’s history.

    One day we joined a Cajun food tour that turned out to be part history lesson, part feast. We drove to the meeting point and climbed aboard a bright red bus decorated with cheerful Cajun touches. Our guide Marie, a former history teacher, quickly set the tone. As we rolled through Lafayette and the surrounding towns she told the story of the Acadians, Le Grand Dérangement, and how settlers from Europe and Nova Scotia shaped the food culture of southern Louisiana.

    Our first stop was Broussard and Ton’s Drive, where we tried gumbo served with potato salad. This sparked one of the great Cajun debates. Do you keep the potato salad separate, mix it into the gumbo, or dip each spoonful? (In case you’re curious Chris and I are both dippers.) Next came BJ’s, where we sampled a shrimp po’ boy. The sandwich itself carries a bit of history. 

    During a streetcar strike in New Orleans in the 1920s, restaurant owners created large sandwiches to feed the unemployed workers who came in for free meals. They would call out, “Here comes another poor boy,” and the name eventually stuck. 

    At NuNu’s Fresh Market, we sampled crunchy cracklings, smoky andouille, warm boudin balls, boudin sausage, and chicken patties. 

    In Carencro, we stopped at Frezzo’s where we tried incredibly tender gator bites along with fried oysters. The tour ended on a sweet note at Poupart’s Bakery with slices of colorful King Cake.

    It was a delightful way to experience the area. We came home sated and filled with appreciation for Cajun culture and its vast array of spices and flavors (that would literally set the tone for my cooking over the next couple of weeks).

    You Can’t Say You’ve Been To Cajun County If You Haven’t Seen Alligators.

    To experience the landscape that shaped so much of Louisiana’s culture, we spent an afternoon with McGee’s Swamp Tours, drifting deep into the heart of the Atchafalaya Basin. 

    The boat glided through a maze of waterways. Towering bald cypress trees rose straight out of the dark water, their trunks flaring at the base, draped in long strands of Spanish moss that swayed gently with the breeze. According to our guide, this is part of the largest river swamp in the U.S., a vast and complex ecosystem teeming with wildlife and history.

    Our guide, a local Cajun, who clearly knew these waters by heart, narrated the entire ride with stories of his childhood and professional experiences as a fisherman. He pointed out birds tucked into the branches, explained how people have lived off this land for generations, and what it’s really like to call the swamp home. 

    Sad but interesting fact: Rising salinity levels are beginning to reshape parts of the Atchafalaya Basin, placing stress on plant species that have long defined this freshwater ecosystem. Runoff from the spreading of salt on roads during the winter in northern states eventually travels downstream into southern waterways where it does not naturally belong. Over time, this shift in water chemistry can suffocate vegetation that depends on delicate freshwater conditions.

    On top of having had rain, it had also been cold over the last few days, so the alligators were mostly in hiding. Even so, we spotted a few juveniles near the banks. Just small ripples at first, then the unmistakable shape once you knew what to look for. It made every bend in the water feel like a quiet search.

    At one point, we passed beneath the longest bridge in the area, its concrete stretch cutting across the wilderness in a way that felt almost surreal. And then just as quickly, we were back winding deeper into the still, green labyrinth.

    One of the most fascinating parts wasn’t the wildlife but the “cabins”. Scattered along the water were houseboats, perched on stilts and adapted to a way of life completely shaped by the swamp. It felt like an entirely different rhythm of living. It was so different from anything I’d seen before.

    The whole experience felt less like a tour and more like entering an ecosystem, a culture, and a way of life that exists quietly, just beyond the edges of what most people see.

    Exploring By Self-Guided Tours

    A self-guided walking tour through Breaux Bridge unfolds less like a checklist and more like a series of open doors. Beginning near the bayou, the route carries you into a downtown where history is not preserved behind glass but lived in. You can step inside spaces like the old hardware stores, including the historic Begnaud’s and Broussard’s buildings, where original wooden storefronts and shelves hint at a time when everything from wagons to tools was sold under one roof.

    Just a few steps away, other storefronts invite a slower kind of browsing. In buildings like the Potier and Pellerin structures, now home to antique shops, cafés, and boutiques, you can walk beneath pressed tin ceilings that have remained intact for over a century, their metallic patterns catching the light in a way that feels both industrial and delicate.

    It is this mix of function and character that defines the walk. One moment you are in a former mercantile space, the next in a boutique or gallery where the architecture tells as much of the story as the items for sale. The experience becomes less about what you are looking for and more about what you stumble into, each doorway offering a small, tangible connection to the town’s past.

    In Lafayette, history also reveals itself in quiet ways. Just beside the stately Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist stands one of the city’s most enduring landmarks, a 450 year old sprawling live oak whose massive branches stretch low and wide, as if shaped by centuries of watching life unfold around it. Believed to be among the oldest in the area, the tree offers a natural counterpoint to the cathedral’s symmetry. Standing beneath its canopy, it feels less like visiting a site and more like stepping briefly into the long, unhurried rhythm of the place.

    A Day In New Orleans

    New Orleans has always felt like a city that belongs as much to the dark as it does to the light. Perhaps that is why it has long been the perfect setting for stories of vampires, ghosts, and restless spirits. Although we’re not usually ones to visit big cities, I’d been looking forward to getting in as much site seeing in our day in New Orleans as possible. Having grown up reading novels about the supernatural and watching popular vampire shows, I knew this was what I would base my itinerary on for the day. Chris was fully aware that he was along for the ride.

    On the day we arrived, I decided to lean fully into that atmosphere and treat our visit like the pages of a gothic diary.

    As we found parking near the edge of the French Quarter and walked toward the historic French Market, the air carried the scent of sugar and fried dough long before we even saw the stalls. Rows and rows of booths with trinkets and t-shirts lined the tin-roofed walkway, their colors spilling out beneath the soft shade. The narrow aisles buzzed with energy: Vendors calling out greetings, music drifting in from somewhere unseen, and the steady shuffle of visitors moving from table to table. Handmade jewelry caught the light beside stacks of local spices, artwork, and souvenirs, creating a mix of textures and colors that felt both lively and quite chaotic.

    Naturally, we made a stop at Loretta’s Authentic Pralines. Their praline beignets are something of a legend. Imagine a traditional beignet, but filled with the sweet, nutty richness of Louisiana pralines. Warm, powdered with sugar, and impossibly indulgent. For comparison’s sake, we attempted to visit the famous Café du Monde. But the line stretched far beyond our patience, and the tourists swirled around the entrance like moths to a lantern. We decided instead to let mystery linger and continued wandering.

    The heart of the Quarter pulled us toward Jackson Square, where artists displayed their work beneath the shade of old trees and musicians filled the air with melody. At the far end stood the towering white spires of St. Louis Cathedral. Inside, we slipped quietly into a pew just as a choir began to sing Christmas hymns. Their voices echoed through the vast space, rising toward the painted ceilings with an almost otherworldly calm.

    Outside the cathedral, however, the mood shifted. A group of street performers had gathered a crowd and were performing athletic stunts that bordered on the impossible. Flips, jokes, crowd participation. It was chaotic, hilarious, and perfectly New Orleans.

    From there we wandered through quieter streets until we stumbled upon Faulkner House Books, a tiny literary haven tucked into a historic building where William Faulkner once lived. The narrow aisles and towering shelves felt like the kind of place where forgotten stories might still linger between the pages.

    Not far away we stepped into the peculiar world of the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum. Inside were shelves of antique bottles, strange instruments, and relics from an era when medicine was as much superstition as science. It was equal parts fascinating and slightly unsettling. It really makes you grateful for modern medicine and current technologies.

    By mid afternoon we decided to cross the city using the Canal Street streetcar. It rumbled across the less touristy areas of the city until it reached Lake Lawn Metairie Cemetery. Known locally as one of the many “Cities of the Dead,” the cemetery holds ornate above ground tombs and mausoleums. Among them is the resting place of Anne Rice and her family. Standing there felt strangely fitting on the day we spent wrapped in the gothic atmosphere of the city she immortalized in novels like Interview with the Vampire.

    When we returned to the Quarter, we walked down the infamous Bourbon Street. It was only two in the afternoon, yet the street already hummed with life (a mild way of putting it, I suppose). Music spilled from every doorway. Jazz, rock, brass bands, just to name a few. The sound layered itself into a constant roar of rhythm and intoxicated laughter. This became a little overwhelming so we turned onto some adjacent streets. Just beyond the buzz of Bourbon Street, the streets unfolded into a quieter kind of magic: Rows of pastel-hued Creole townhouses glowing under the sun. Adorning the old houses, wrought-iron balconies curled like lace above shuttered windows, while hidden courtyards whispered of another time. It’s a place where Spanish influence meets Caribbean color, and every doorway feels like the beginning of a story.

    Eventually we stepped into a place that felt perfectly on theme for the day: The Vampire Apothecary Restaurant & Bar. There we ordered a “blood bag,” which despite its appearance was simply sangria, along with a charcuterie board.

    Just as we were getting ready to leave, the waitress handed us a small card.

    “This is a private invitation,” she said quietly. “A vampire speakeasy.”

    She gave us a few directions and a password.

    Naturally, we accepted the mission.

    A few minutes later we followed the instructions on the card and made our way to the back of Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub. A dark hallway led us into a courtyard where the sounds of jazz slowly faded behind us. The space opened into a narrow, tucked-away patio framed by warm terracotta walls, strung overhead with soft, glowing lights that crisscrossed between a weathered tree and the surrounding buildings. Small metal café tables and mismatched chairs dotted the cobblestone ground, giving it an intimate, almost secret-garden feel. Potted plants clung to the walls, and a quiet stillness settled in. Chris looked confused.

    I, however, immediately spotted him.

    A man with long straight black hair sat beneath the dim courtyard lights, wearing a dapper vest and reading a book. For anyone who has ever read fiction, it was almost painfully obvious.

    As I approached, he looked up.

    Bright amber eyes stared back at me. Yes, I am fully aware they were contact lenses. But in that moment the theatrical illusion worked perfectly.

    “The vampire sent us,” I said, giving the password.

    He closed his book, stood, and gestured for us to follow.

    Chris was still trying to figure out why I was talking to strangers as we were led through a service door and up a narrow, shadowy staircase. When the door at the top finally opened, we stepped into a dimly lit bar that looked as though it had been pulled straight from a gothic novel.

    Candles flickered. Velvet furniture lined the room. Another elegantly dressed “vampire” welcomed us inside.

    We ordered cocktails and stepped out onto the terrace overlooking Bourbon Street just as the sun began to set. From above, the chaos of the street below became almost entertaining. We watched the crowds swirl while enjoying the calm distance of our hidden perch.

    Our final stop brought us to the Voodoo Lounge, where we joined a vampire and ghost tour through the French Quarter. As darkness settled over the old streets, our guide led us past flickering gas lamps and wrought-iron balconies, weaving through hidden courtyards and quiet alleyways where the city seemed to hold its breath. We paused outside centuries-old buildings as stories unfolded—tales of restless spirits lingering in former homes, whispered legends of vampires said to roam the Quarter, and eerie accounts tied to New Orleans’ deep-rooted voodoo traditions. At times, it was hard to tell where history ended and folklore began. We listened wide eyed, enthralled as we sipped on our hurricane cocktail while walking and taking in all this exciting and slightly terrifying storytelling.

    By the time we finished the tour, the city felt even more alive with secrets. As if somewhere in the shadows a pair of amber eyes happened to be watching. Well… that would only be fitting in New Orleans.

    (In Other News) The Less Than Ideal Situation When Living In Temporary Places

    At our campground, one unexpected “side quest” unfolded just a few feet from our campsite. For several days in a row, we had heard the same neighboring camper erupt into loud arguments well past dark. The scene itself was puzzling. Over the course of a few days, we had spotted a rotating cast of people coming and going from the same worn, Breaking Bad-looking bus. A young couple, an older woman, maybe another young adult. It was never entirely clear who actually lived there.

    By the fourth night, after being woken up yet again around 11 PM, Chris had had enough. He stepped outside and walked over, catching a glimpse through the back window as he approached. Inside, an elderly-ish woman with mousy brown hair and a cigarette in hand was mid-argument with a man he had never even seen before. For a brief second, they locked eyes, but Chris kept going and knocked firmly on the door.

    When it opened, a young man stood there. Shirtless, slightly disheveled, pants half-buttoned, he carried himself with a casual indifference that made the whole situation feel unbothered. As Chris was about to start talking, he noticed a toddler along with a young woman sitting on the couch in the background. His tone shifted instantly. What could have been a confrontation turned into something more measured as Chris simply asked, “What’s going on here?” The answer came back dismissive. “You’ll have to take that up with them, bro,” before the door shut again. 

    Moments later, the attention shifted back to the rear window, where someone inside urged another to handle it. “Now he’s at our window, talk to him.” Chris hears right before a middle-aged man finally appears looking detached as his head pokes out the small camper’s window. When told the entire campground could hear them, he offered a casual apology, as if it were all far less disruptive than it felt.

    And just like that, the window closed, the noise stopped, and silence returned. Still, the night carried a lingering unease. By morning, the decision felt obvious. We asked to move campsites, choosing distance, and leaving that strange unfortunate story behind us.

    Flying Home For The Holidays

    By the time this post goes live, we are well into March. (As my mom, who also happens to be my blog editor, lovingly told me the other day: You’re slacking!) But rewind a little, because our time in Louisiana actually overlapped with the holidays, which meant pressing pause on life on the road and hopping on a flight from New Orleans to Montreal to spend Christmas with my family.

    Christmas and New Year’s in my family are not just calendar dates. It’s a full production. And while Louisiana gave us charming moments, like a Cajun Christmas market and towns dressed up in twinkling lights, I will admit… the lack of snow made it all feel slightly off-script. Festive, yes. But missing that white, cinematic touch if you know what I mean.

    Cue our arrival in Montreal. As we made our way out of the airport, there they were. My parents, hopping out of the car with a handmade “Welcome home!” sign like we were long-lost celebrities returning from tour. Honestly, 10 out of 10.

    Being back carried this warm layer of nostalgia, even though we hadn’t been gone all that long. Familiar stops quickly made their way into the schedule. A visit to Milano’s grocery store, then wandering through Marché Jean-Talon, with its rows of fresh produce and local vendors stretching in every direction. And of course, the essential stop at Alati-Caserta for cannolis and Italian pastries that somehow taste exactly like childhood.

    Food. Drinks. Festivities. Repeat.

    Thursday night supper, a sacred family tradition, set the tone. Cold cuts, Italian cold pizza, cheeses, salad, and wine. Lots of wine. 

    Christmas Eve brought midnight mass and was followed by Christmas Day, which meant gathering again. More food, more wine, and the annual emotional rollercoaster of watching old family DVDs. Nothing humbles you quite like early 2000s footage of your teenage self, full of chaotic energy and questionable fashion choices. A true reminder that growing up without social media was a gift.

    Naturally, the one day Montreal decided to stage an ice storm was the exact day we had plans. Chris and I were meeting my uncle and aunt for lunch at Pizzeria 900 on Fleury Street. We parked the car and quite literally ice skated our way across the street, clinging to balance and dignity, before settling in for, you guessed it, more food and wine. There is a very clear theme to my visits home, and I stand by it.

    During these visits, Chris is not only my husband and travel partner, he is also the official family IT department. Because if you work in tech, you do not simply visit family. You troubleshoot. Within hours, he found himself on the phone with Videotron customer support, trying to solve the mystery of my parents’ unreliable Wi-Fi.

    To be fair, the real issue might be less about the internet and more about my dad’s… commitment to outdated technology. The man operates on a strict “if it still turns on, it’s fine” policy, only considering upgrades once things have fully collapsed. The term of endearment is “the Camplani way” for these instances. Thankfully, my tech-savvy uncle has been slowly dragging him into the modern era over the years, including the legendary moment he gifted my dad his first flat-screen TV approximately two decades after the rest of society had made the switch.

    All in all, it was the perfect holiday intermission. A little snow, a lot of wine, and just enough chaos to remind me exactly where I come from.

    Driving Back To Minnesota

    During the holidays, we received the call that Chris’ grandmother, Dorie, had passed. Ninety-six years old. What a long, full, and deeply lived life she had.

    There wasn’t a moment of hesitation. We immediately shifted into logistics mode, figuring out how to get back to Minnesota in time for the funeral. Our campground dates were about to expire, but somehow everything fell into place. We found an RV repair shop that could take the Bus in for bearing maintenance1 while we were gone. There was no way we would be driving it through a Midwestern winter.

    Gam Gam, as we called Dorie, was the heart of the Sundeen family: the matron in every sense of the word. A stubborn and fiercely independent woman, she was always there for others: her family, her church, her community. She loved sewing and spent countless hours making quilts and garments, many of which she donated to organizations supporting people in need. It was just one of the ways she cared for others.

    She always welcomed you into her home and made sure you never left hungry. Her pickle spread, a steady supply of sweets, and coffee were simply part of the experience of being with her.

    What always amazed me was her memory. She was unlike any person I’d ever met. She could recall stories, names, connections across an incredibly large family tree. The kind of family where you half-jokingly request everyone wear name tags.

    The service was held at the Catholic Church she had attended for so many years. Before entering, we gathered in the main entrance and I observed an entire family dressed in formal black. For a group that usually abides by a casual dress code, it quietly spoke volumes about the respect and love everyone had for her. The priest shared stories of her life, highlighting the many ways she had touched those around her. Several of her grandchildren, including Chris, read passages she had chosen herself; some of her favorites, we later learned. It was a lovely service in honor of a wonderful woman.

    At the cemetery, the Minnesota wind was sharp and unrelenting, the kind that cuts right through you. We gathered closely under the tent as the casket was lowered beside her late husband. One by one, the grandchildren and great grandchildren stepped forward, each taking a flower from the bouquet and placing it gently onto the casket as we all said our final goodbyes.

    In true form, she had planned every detail of her funeral. Even the meal that followed was made up of her favorite dishes, giving everyone a space to come together, share stories, and honor her life and legacy.

    A final gesture. Simple, quiet, and full of meaning.

    1. We received a call from the RV shop during our 3-day drive back to Minnesota informing us that they no longer were able to perform maintenance on the Bus. A rather disappointing turn of events, but that still allowed us to have the Bus securely store FOR FREE while we were away… So kind of a half win, then.

  • We Head East

    We Head East

    Leaving the cabin meant facing the hardest part of long-term travel: Deciding where to go next. Every option feels like the right one; yet choosing means letting go of a dozen others. The desire to see it all can weigh heavier than the motorcycles packed in the trailer. FOMO is a real travel companion, and if you let it take over, you’ll sit frozen in “what ifs” instead of moving forward. It’s analysis paralysis at its worst – like staring at a blank page before daring to write the first line. I speak from personal experience on this one.

    To arrive at a final decision isn’t always simple. Chris and I had been glued to our laptops for hours, scouring maps for a campground that checked all the boxes: Clear, unobstructed skies for our internet connection, close to bucket-list worthy motorcycle trails, far from a noisy highway, away from the middle of a city, reasonably priced, and available for a three-week stay. Yes, we know, our criteria list is a mile long.

    Each time we thought we’d found the right spot, we’d comb through campground reviews like detectives. When we finally landed on a spot that seemed perfect and spoke to someone at the other end of the line, our relief gave way to skepticism.

    “Do we pay now?” we asked.
    “Oh no, at the end, don’t worry about it,” came the casual reply.

    Which immediately set off alarm bells. The trauma of our North Bay, Ontario campground fiasco was still way too fresh. No deposit? No receipt? No guarantee?

    “Do we get a confirmation number or email?” I asked, trying not to sound shrill.
    “Oh, yeah, sure. It’s 9038.”

    To this day, we’re convinced that number was pulled out of thin air just to shut us up. But with no backup plan, we crossed our fingers and hit the road for the 1000 miles journey. Onwards to Nova Scotia, Canada!

    Our first day had us driving for over 11 hours, until the sun started to set. That’s how we ended up at a truck stop in New Brunswick for the night. Not exactly the pretty-views-camping we’d envisioned as rookie full-timers, but in RV life, safe and practical wins in certain cases. Fluorescent lights buzzed overhead while the low hum of diesel engines became our white noise.

    The next morning, optimism took the wheel, along with just enough blind faith to keep things interesting. I had been appointed Chief Navigation Officer, a title that sounded far more official considering my actual skills. What I didn’t realize was that my GPS had “Toll Roads Off” in its settings. Combine that with the fact that we’d run out of Canadian data, our route was locked-in the moment I pressed “Go.” No rerouting, no quick fixes. Just commitment to our paper Atlas. It became a lighthouse beacon safely guiding our ship to port.

    Of course, that’s when the map betrayed us. A “primary highway” looked promising outlined in bold red, but turned out to be anything but highway or primary. The fastest route on paper was definitely not the easiest way to tow the Bus.

    Here’s where our personalities inevitably collided. Free spirit me was the one who insisted on chasing the ocean as we headed East, convinced that the smaller highways would reward us with sweeping views. The ever-rational Chris, pointed out the less romantic reality. Postcard-worthy roads usually come with sharp curves, low shoulders, and a headache or two. Naturally, we married each other.

    We ended up following my lead. Our prize for chasing the ocean? A narrow, winding road that ended abruptly in construction. 

    “How closed could it really be?” we asked. Answer: Very closed.

    This led us straight into one of those humbling rites of passage as a newly-ish married couple. We backed our rig into a stranger’s driveway to make a 180 degree turn. Remember when I mentioned taking driving for granted? There’s no quicker ego check than pretending to stay calm while your husband maneuvers 35 feet of trailer backwards with surgical precision.

    Eventually, we found the detour, which wound us onto (you guessed it) more narrow roads. By this time, the charm was wearing thin. Potholes rattled the truck and trailer. The pavement eventually gave way to a stretch of dirt road, vibrating us to pieces with relentless speed bumps. Then came the tight squeezes through small towns, where our mirrors practically brushed past mailboxes and parked cars.

    I could feel Chris’s patience stretching perilously with every bump and jolt. The more the road deteriorated, the quieter it got inside the truck. Not the peaceful kind of quiet. More like the no one dares to speak because we both know exactly why we’re here kind of quiet. This had been my call and I was acutely aware of my blunder. From the grand idea of chasing the ocean along a “scenic” back route, I now sat small in my seat, trying not to attract attention.

    Finally, the road opened up to the sweeping ocean view I had been longing for. While they were exactly as I’d imagined, . Only tinged with the knowledge that sometimes, the beauty comes with a price. In this case, the price was every last ounce of Chris’s patience.

    Harbour Light Campground

    We pulled into the campground and stepped into the main office, where we were greeted by the owner, Cameron. Without hesitation, he reached behind him for a basket on the shelf and handed it over. Inside were heaps of plump blueberries.

    “Here ya go! Fresh picked just yesterday morning,” he said with a cheerful grin.

    The voice rang a bell. It was the same man who’d taken our reservation over the phone! Sure enough, our site was ready – the very site he’d told us about during our first conversation. Somehow, without checking a single note or phone screen, he remembered not only our names but also where we were from and what we were towing. Impressive.

    No sooner had we finished introductions than Cameron launched into what the longtime seasonal campers later described as his “50-question interrogation.” Apparently, it was his way of showing he liked you. I believed it.

    One of his questions was about which route we’d taken to get to the town of Pictou. And there it was—the dreaded question. I admitted, a little sheepishly, that we’d taken Route 6.

    “Oh no, that’s the long way ‘round,” he chuckled. “Never mind what the GPS tells ya. The highway looks longer, but you’ll be moving faster and straighter.”

    I could feel Chris nodding his agreement. I, on the other hand, avoided eye contact. Cameron caught the silence. “Ah, you two fight on the way here?” he asked, eyebrows raised.

    Busted. I scrambled for a response that wouldn’t give us away completely.

    “Well,” I said, “I admit I made a navigational mistake. Let’s just say that the inside of the truck got very quiet.”

    Cameron burst out laughing. 

    “That’s worse! But hey, you made it, and it’ll all be better now that you’re here.” Then he added, almost as an afterthought: “Don’t prepare supper!”

    Chris and I exchanged a quick, confused glance, but exhaustion had gotten the better of us. With the Bus still to set up and bags to unpack, we simply nodded, thanked him, and headed off to our site.

    We tuck ourselves into a row of RVs, each lined up neatly beside the next. It feels busy here, a little buzz of activity with families setting up chairs, kids pedaling bikes, and the smell of the nearby ocean drifts through the air. Everything is tidy and cared for, which makes the bustle feel inviting rather than overwhelming. The best part is the beach: Just a short walk down from the site, where you can dip your toes in the water or simply sit back and watch the waves roll in. It’s the kind of place where you feel part of a bigger camping community, yet still get to enjoy the calm of a small coastal town.

    Once we’d finished tidying up around the campsite, we couldn’t resist the pull of the ocean. Neither of us had ever stood on this side of the Atlantic before, and its mystery tugged at us. What would it be like? Were there sharks, jellyfish, or other strange creatures lurking out there? Like any curious couple, we knew the only “sensible” thing to do was to get in and find out.

    The path to the beach starts simply enough: Winding under a canopy of tall trees, the ground shifting from gravel to scattered rocks. Sunlight filters through the leaves, flickering on the trail as we make our way down. Soon, the trees open onto a sandy walkway bordered by tufts of tall grass swaying in the warm breeze. That very first step onto the sand feels like pure bliss.

    And then, just ahead, the path funneled wide. There it was, the Atlantic, in all its quiet grandeur. Waves rolled in gently, carrying that unmistakable salty tang. But there was a twist I hadn’t expected. The air smelled different from the Caribbean waters I knew so well. Here, the salt mingled with a faint but present hint of sulfur, like the scent of hard-boiled eggs. When the tide dropped, the smell grew stronger – a strange but oddly endearing reminder that this ocean had its own character, one we grew to enjoy over our stay.

    The heat wave and drought pressing down on Nova Scotia made the day feel almost tropical, heavy with humidity. The air was so warm that the coolness of the water felt less like an intimidating eviction and more like an open invitation. With the sun on our backs and the horizon stretching endlessly before us, it was impossible not to walk in, letting the Atlantic welcome us for the very first time.

    The first swim of the day was perfect; the kind of effortless joy that makes you forget the chill of the water. Later that evening, we returned, thinking a sunset dip would be the ideal way to end the day. But as we waded deeper into the water, something caught Chris’ eye. A sudden yelp, a splash, and he bolted back toward the shore. Odd. What could have startled a grown man like that?

    When I looked down, there were hundreds of tiny, shifting shapes moving beneath the surface. My turn to panic. I stumbled back, laughing nervously as we both realized how ridiculous we must look. A quick scan of the beach confirmed it—no one else was in the water. People were either strolling along the sand or lounging on towels, gazing out at the view. Was this some kind of local secret? Do Maritime waters become off-limits after the tide goes out?

    Curiosity got the better of us, so we crept back in, carefully watching where we stepped. As the ripples cleared, the mystery revealed itself: Crabs. Dozens of little hermit crabs, scuttling over the sand. It must have been the warmth of the shallow water drawing them out. Then we spotted a few larger rock crabs ambling about with far too much confidence. One began making a not-so-slow, deliberate approach toward Chris’ foot.

    Now, I know what you’re probably thinking: 

    “Really? They’re tiny. What’s the big deal?” 

    Fair point. But knowing that doesn’t stop instinct. When that three-inch crab advanced like it had a personal vendetta against Chris’ toes, he let out another yelp and sprinted for dry land. I wasn’t far behind.

    By the time we made our way back to the campground, we were laughing hard, salty and barefoot, grateful for the kind of simple, silly moment that reminds us of how close to nature we really are. Our first unexpected adventure of this trip can be summarized by: Small crabs, big memories.

    Besides our two beach visits, we couldn’t forget Cameron’s parting words: “Don’t worry about supper.” We thought he was joking. Campground owners don’t usually double as personal chefs, right? But as we were settling in, getting our bearings at the site, a truck rolled up and stopped in front of the Bus. The window glided down and there was Cameron himself, grinning from ear to ear.

    With that unmistakable Nova Scotia lilt, he calls out: “Hope you’re hungry! See if you can figure out what makes this different —it’s our county’s special recipe.” And like some sort of culinary magician, he pulls out an oversized pizza box and hands it to us.

    Now, if there’s one thing you should know about us, it’s that pizza is our collective kryptonite. Actually, scratch that, anything with gluten is. So, this isn’t just supper being delivered to our campsite, it’s destiny. We thank him profusely, grab the box like a pack of overexcited kids, and hurry into the trailer to unwrap our prize.

    And she is glorious. Extra large, cheesy, clearly pepperoni, with a crust that hits that perfect balance of not too thin, not too thick. Our first slices disappear at a speed that could set records. So much for savoring the “special ingredients.”

    Determined to do better on slice number two, we slow down. That’s when we notice something different. The pepperoni sausage is smoked, sure, but the sauce… it’s brown. Not red-brown, but honest-to-goodness brown.

    “Is this even tomato sauce?” I ask, baffled. Chris, replies mid-bite with the confidence of a man committed to finishing the slice regardless: “Tastes like tomato sauce.”

    Mystery or not, the pizza didn’t stand a chance. It was gone in under thirty minutes. Later, when we ran into Cameron, he asked if we’d figured out what made it different.

    “The sausage was smoky,” we said. “And is there something going on with the sauce?”

    With that same knowing smile, he replied, “Yep! The tomato sauce here always comes out brown.”

    Brown tomato sauce? That was a first. And as for why it’s that way—well, that part remains a mystery. But honestly, who cares? It was rich, smoky, and absolutely delicious. We’d happily demolish another Acropole Pizza any day of the week.

    Downtown Pictou Village: A Culinary Diary

    I don’t like to call myself a foodie. No shame to those who proudly wear that badge, but I prefer to think of myself as a subscriber of the “I’ll try anything once” philosophy. My former coworkers used to call me the seagull because I’d eat my lunch and then happily swoop in on whatever leftovers anyone offered. Fair.

    Food, to me, is how you get to know a place. It’s the quickest way to understand its rhythm. And here, in the Maritimes, where the ocean writes every menu, each meal feels like a celebration. We’d rolled into Pictou, a sun-swept harbor village that instantly felt like the kind of place where everyone waves, even if they don’t know you. Amazingly, every car stops whenever a pedestrian reaches the crosswalk. This charming little town absolutely delivered!

    Downtown Pictou has that effortlessly cozy, slightly nostalgic small-port vibe. It’s the kind of place where brightly painted storefronts line the main street, locals greet each other by name, and the smell of salt air mingles with fryer oil and the comforting aroma of something cooking just out of sight. The waterfront boardwalk has that wish you were here kind of charm—boats gently bobbing in the harbor, gulls swooping with perfect timing, and a light sea breeze that carries both the scent of the ocean and someone’s order of fish and chips. You can wander past boutiques shops, restaurants, and the Hector Heritage Quay, where a full-scale replica of the ship Hector nods to the town’s proud Scottish roots. There’s something sweetly unhurried about it all; even the breeze seems to take its time.

    On one of our evenings exploring Pictou, we found our way to The Nook and Cranny, tucked right by the water, and grabbed a spot on the patio. It was one of those summer evenings when the heat practically melts off the pavement. So, the first cold sip felt like a personal victory. Chris went for the classic fish and chips—perfectly crispy, golden perfection. I couldn’t resist the fried haddock burger, which was everything you want a coastal meal to be: flaky, tender, and unapologetically messy. Chris’ Moscow Mule was crisp, my cider refreshing, and with the heat, every gulp tasted better than the last.

    We sat there grinning like fools, staring at the harbor, feeling that rare and satisfying kind of contentment that comes when good food, good drink, and a good view collide. 

    On more than one occasion during our stay in Nova Scotia, we gave in to the sweet call of ice cream. Sandy’s Ice Cream Shop quickly became a favorite, with its cheerful chalkboard list of flavors. Cones in hand, we’d wander along the waterfront, the salty air mixing with the scent of waffle cones and ocean breeze. Sometimes, a local musician would be strumming folk songs by the water, his voice carrying softly over the lapping waves. It was the kind of simple, perfect moment that makes warm days feel endless.

    One evening, during one of our passeggiate (the Italian after-dinner stroll Chris and I have adopted as a ritual) we stumbled upon Logan’s Daily Catch, a small seafood market tucked near the marina. The sign promised fresh local fish, and I couldn’t resist. The next afternoon, I rushed back and picked out a beautiful piece of halibut.

    Cooking has always been a joy for me, something grounding and creative all at once. There’s a rhythm to it: chopping colorful vegetables, mixing herbs, feeling the warmth of the pan, and watching everything come together. Maybe my Italian heritage is revealed through my love of feeding others and making the table feel alive. I grew up watching my mom and grandmothers turn ordinary ingredients into feasts. Always from scratch, always with pride.

    That evening, our little picnic table outside the RV looked like a summer painting: bright vegetables, perfectly grilled halibut, and homemade Paloma cocktails glistening in the sun. We lingered through dinner, laughing and shooting at the occasional fly with our ever-trusted salt gun, the air still thick with heat of the day.

    Pictou may be small, but it packs a flavorful punch. From seaside ice cream to market-fresh fish, every bite feels like a discovery and we’re more than happy to play seagulls once again, savoring every last crumb and drop of summer.